A Local's Guide to Córdoba, Spain: 10 Top Tips

Córdoba was once one of the largest and most cultured cities in Europe, the capital of Al-Andalus. Today it's a compact, sun-baked city of whitewashed lanes and flower-filled courtyards, smaller and calmer than Seville or Granada. These tips will help you see it like a local.

1. Visit the Mezquita early

The Mosque-Cathedral is one of the world's great buildings: a forest of red-and-white striped arches, with a Renaissance cathedral built into its centre. Go at opening time, before the tour groups, and spend a few minutes standing still among the columns. Climb the bell tower for views over the old town, and come back at night if there's a sound-and-light show.

2. Walk the Roman bridge at sunset

The Puente Romano crosses the Guadalquivir towards the Calahorra Tower, a fortified gate that now houses a small museum. At sunset, the view back to the Mezquita across the river is the classic picture of Córdoba.

3. Explore the Judería

The old Jewish quarter is a maze of lanes just north of the Mezquita. Find the tiny Calleja de las Flores, with its view of the bell tower framed by flowerpots, and the medieval synagogue – one of only a handful left in Spain.

4. Tour the patios

Córdoba's courtyards, covered in geraniums and climbing plants, are famous across Spain. During the May festival, owners open them to visitors and they compete for prizes. If you're here at another time of year, some patios in the San Basilio area open all year, and guided routes are available.

5. Stroll the gardens of the Alcázar

The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos was a royal fortress and later the seat of the Inquisition. Its terraced gardens, with long pools, fountains and orange trees, are the highlight – and much cooler than the streets outside.

6. Eat salmorejo where it was invented

Córdoba's own cold soup is thicker than gazpacho, made from tomato, bread, olive oil and garlic and topped with egg and ham. Also try flamenquín (rolled pork and ham, breaded and fried) and a glass of the local Montilla-Moriles wine in an old taberna.

7. Find the quieter squares

Plaza de la Corredera, an arcaded square with a morning market, feels like a smaller Plaza Mayor. Plaza del Potro, mentioned by Cervantes in Don Quixote, is home to the Julio Romero de Torres Museum.

8. See a film under the stars

From June to September, Córdoba's open-air summer cinemas show films in courtyards after dark. It's a cheap, very local night out – and a welcome escape from the heat of indoor rooms.

9. Take a day trip to Medina Azahara

The ruins of a 10th-century palace-city lie in the hills just outside Córdoba and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A shuttle bus runs from the city centre; check times before you go.

10. Get around on foot (or by bike)

The old town is small and best explored on foot, early in the morning or in the evening when it's cooler. Riverside paths make bike rides easy and give you good views back over the city.

Getting there

Córdoba is on the high-speed rail line between Madrid, Seville and Málaga, making it easy to combine with other Andalusian cities. The nearest airports are Seville and Málaga.