A Local's Guide to Granada: 10 Top Tips

Granada sits at the foot of the snowy Sierra Nevada, crowned by the Alhambra – the most beautiful Moorish palace in Europe. But the city is also about whitewashed hill neighbourhoods, free tapas, flamenco in cave houses and the scent of jasmine on warm evenings. These are the tips locals give their friends.

1. Book the Alhambra early – and officially

The Alhambra's Nasrid Palaces are entered at a fixed time printed on your ticket, and you can't get in if you're late. Book well ahead on the official website, bring the ID you booked with, and allow at least three to four hours for the palaces, the Alcazaba fortress and the Generalife gardens.

2. Watch sunset from the Mirador de San Nicolás

The square at the top of the Albaicín has the classic view of the Alhambra glowing red against the Sierra Nevada. For a quieter alternative, walk a little further to the Mirador de San Cristóbal or the viewpoint below the church of San Miguel Alto.

3. Get lost in the Albaicín

The old Moorish quarter is a maze of steep, whitewashed lanes, hidden courtyard gardens (cármenes) and small squares. Walk up through the Carrera del Darro, one of the most beautiful streets in Spain, along the river below the Alhambra.

4. See real flamenco in Sacromonte

In the Sacromonte neighbourhood, families have lived in cave houses for generations, and flamenco shows are performed in the caves themselves – intimate and intense. Visit the Sacromonte Caves Museum by day to learn about life in the caves.

5. Go on a tapas crawl

Granada is one of the last cities in Spain where a free tapa comes with every drink in many bars. Order a caña (small beer) or a glass of wine and see what arrives. The streets around Calle Navas and Plaza Nueva are full of traditional bars.

6. Visit the Cathedral and the Royal Chapel

Next to Granada's huge Renaissance cathedral, the Royal Chapel is the resting place of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Catholic Monarchs who completed the conquest of Granada in 1492.

7. Relax in an Arab bath

Recreate the city's Moorish bathing tradition in a modern hammam: warm, hot and cold pools under candlelit arches, with an optional massage. Book ahead for evening slots.

8. Shop at the Alcaicería and the market

The narrow lanes of the Alcaicería, once the city's silk market, sell lanterns, ceramics and spices. For local produce, head to the San Agustín market near the cathedral.

9. Take tea in Calderería Nueva

This steep lane, known as the "street of the tea houses", is lined with Moroccan-style teterías serving mint tea and sweet pastries – a reminder of Granada's Moorish past.

10. Escape to the Sierra Nevada

In winter, Sierra Nevada's ski station is under an hour's drive from the city – you can ski in the morning and eat tapas in the evening. In summer, hike in the national park or explore the white villages of the Alpujarras.

Getting there and around

Granada has a small airport and is connected by high-speed train to Madrid and by bus to the rest of Andalusia. Walk the centre, and use the small Alhambra and Albaicín minibuses to save your legs on the hills. Combining Spain with Portugal? Head west to the Algarve, or cross to Morocco and compare the Alhambra with the palaces of Marrakech.