How to Take the Ultimate Trip to Essaouira, Morocco's Windy City

After the heat and bustle of Marrakech, Essaouira feels like a breath of fresh sea air. This walled port on Morocco's Atlantic coast has a relaxed, artistic atmosphere, a UNESCO-listed medina, blue fishing boats, grilled sardines and some of the best wind in Africa for kitesurfing. Here's how to make the most of your trip.

Essaouira at a glance

• Where: Morocco's Atlantic coast, about three hours west of Marrakech.
• Nickname: the "Wind City of Africa".
• Best for: relaxing, art and music lovers, kitesurfers and windsurfers.
• How long: two to three nights.
• Best time: spring and autumn for mild weather; summer is windy and cool.

Things to do

1. Explore the medina

Essaouira's 18th-century medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was laid out by a French architect for the sultan, so its streets are wider and easier to navigate than in Fez or Marrakech. Browse spice shops, art galleries and workshops of thuya wood – a fragrant local wood used for boxes and carvings.

White walls, blue doors and shutters, galleries of paintings and thuya-wood workshops smelling of cedar – the medina is calm and relaxed compared with Marrakech, and the vendors much less pushy.

2. Walk the ramparts

The Skala de la Ville, sea walls lined with old bronze cannons, offer superb views of the waves crashing below – especially at sunset. The ramparts appeared as the city of Astapor in Game of Thrones.

Cannons point out to sea from the old Skala, waves crash against the rocks below and the wind blows salt in your face – sunset here is magical.

3. The fishing port

Every morning, fishermen unload their catch from the famous blue boats as gulls circle overhead. Choose your fish at the grill stalls near the port and have it cooked on the spot – sardines, sea bream and prawns are local favourites.

Blue boats are pulled up on the quay, fishermen mend their nets, gulls scream overhead and at the grills you pick your fish and eat it hot at a plastic table.

4. The beach and water sports

The wide sandy beach curves south from the town. The wind makes Essaouira one of Africa's top spots for kitesurfing and windsurfing – schools offer lessons for beginners. Calmer activities include horse and camel rides along the sand.

The long, wide beach is windswept and perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing – less for sunbathing, as the wind blows sand around much of the year.

5. Music and festivals

Essaouira has strong links to Gnaoua music, a spiritual musical tradition with West African roots. The Gnaoua World Music Festival, usually in June, fills the town with concerts.

Around Essaouira

6. Argan cooperatives

The surrounding countryside is argan country. Visit a women's cooperative where argan oil is produced by hand for cooking and cosmetics – and you may see goats climbing argan trees along the road.

Berber women crack argan nuts between stones and grind them by hand, and you can taste amlou, the sweet argan and almond spread, with fresh bread.

7. Sidi Kaouki and Moulay Bouzerktoun

These small coastal villages south and north of Essaouira are popular with surfers and kitesurfers looking for quieter beaches.

Getting there

8. From Marrakech

Buses and shared taxis connect Marrakech and Essaouira in about three hours, and many tours offer day trips. Essaouira–Mogador Airport has limited flights. See our Marrakech guide and 10 experiences in Morocco you shouldn't miss.

The road crosses dry plains dotted with argan trees – and sometimes goats balanced in the branches – before the cool Atlantic air greets you in Essaouira.

Tips

• Pack a jacket: even in summer, the wind can make evenings cool.
• Stay in a riad in the medina for atmosphere.
• Bargain politely in the souks.
• Dress modestly away from the beach.