El Gouna Travel Guide: Lagoons, Kitesurfing and Car-Free Calm

Thirty minutes north of Hurghada, El Gouna is unlike anywhere else on Egypt's Red Sea coast. It was developed from the 1990s as a self-contained resort town on a network of lagoons and islands, with bridges, canals and sandy-coloured buildings that give it the nickname "the Venice of the Red Sea". Today it has its own marina, a walkable downtown, a hospital, schools, a university campus and a year-round community – so it feels like a small town rather than a strip of hotels.

It's calmer, cleaner and more walkable than most Egyptian resorts, with excellent restaurants and some of the best kitesurfing in the world. This guide covers the best things to do, when to go, where to stay, how to get around and how El Gouna compares with Hurghada.

El Gouna at a glance

Things to do

1. Learn to kitesurf

El Gouna is one of the best places in the world to learn to kitesurf. Reliable, steady winds blow on most days, and the shallow, flat-water lagoons near Mangroovy Beach in the north of town are ideal for beginners because you can stand up almost everywhere.

Several international schools offer courses from a short taster to a full beginner course of several days, with radio helmets and boat support. Experienced riders head for the open water and nearby spots such as the lagoons off Soma Bay. Windsurfing, wing foiling and stand-up paddleboarding are also available.

Tip: wind is usually strongest in the afternoon. If you're learning, book your lessons for the same time each day and give yourself a spare day or two in case the wind drops.

Stand on the beach at Mangroovy in the afternoon and the sky is dotted with dozens of colourful kites, the wind steady on your face and the water flat and knee-deep for hundreds of metres. Your first lessons are spent standing in the shallows learning to steer the kite, then come the first wobbly metres on the board – and the moment it suddenly clicks. The wind is strongest in the afternoon, so mornings are for lessons on the beach and coffee in the shade.

2. Stroll around Abu Tig Marina

Abu Tig Marina is El Gouna's social heart. Restaurants, cafés, bars and boutiques line the quayside around the yachts, and in the evening it fills with people walking, eating and watching the sunset.

It's the best place in town for dinner, with everything from Italian and seafood to Asian and Lebanese cooking. Prices are higher than in Hurghada's old town but in line with European resorts. In the morning, many boat trips and dive boats leave from here.

As the sun sets, the yachts in the harbour turn pink and gold, the restaurant terraces fill up and the quayside smells of grilled fish and garlic butter. Couples stroll the promenade, children chase each other past the boutiques and you'll hear Arabic, German, Italian and English at the next tables. Book a waterfront table for sunset, expect prices well above Hurghada's old town and allow time – service can be relaxed when it's busy.

3. Explore Downtown El Gouna

Downtown, around Tamr Henna Square and Kafr El Gouna, has a different feel from the marina: smaller cafés, shisha bars, bakeries, a supermarket and shops selling local crafts, spices and clothes. It's livelier with families and residents and generally cheaper than the marina.

Walk from Tamr Henna Square through the lanes towards the lagoons, stop for fresh juice or an Egyptian breakfast of ful and taameya, and browse the small shops. Several hotels are within walking distance.

Downtown feels more like a small Egyptian town than a resort: shisha smoke drifting from café terraces, the clink of tea glasses, the smell of fresh bread from the bakery and tuk-tuks buzzing past Tamr Henna Square. Sit down for a breakfast of ful, taameya and warm baladi bread, or a cold hibiscus juice in the afternoon, at a fraction of marina prices.

4. Take a lagoon boat ride

El Gouna's canals and lagoons link many hotels and neighbourhoods. Small boats and water taxis run between key points, and short sightseeing rides are a lovely way to see the town – especially at sunset, when the water turns gold.

You can also rent kayaks and stand-up paddleboards to explore the calmer lagoons at your own pace. Stay in marked areas and watch for boat traffic.

The boat slides along canals of turquoise water lined with white and terracotta villas, bougainvillea spilling over the walls and little wooden bridges arching overhead. It's quiet apart from the hum of the motor and the occasional splash of a fish. Go in the late afternoon, when the light is soft and the water glows – it's one of the most photogenic hours in El Gouna.

5. Relax on the beaches

El Gouna has a choice of beaches with very different atmospheres:

• Zeytuna Beach sits on its own small island, reached by boat – the closest thing to a desert-island day without a long boat trip.
• Mangroovy Beach in the north is the kitesurfing hub, with beach bars and restaurants.
• Lagoon beaches at many hotels have calm, shallow water that's perfect for small children.

Most hotels have their own beach or a partner beach with sunbeds. If you're staying in a lagoon hotel, check how far it is to the open sea if snorkelling matters to you.

6. Take an island boat trip

Boats from El Gouna and Hurghada visit the Giftun Islands, Orange Bay and the reefs between them for snorkelling and beach time. Trips from El Gouna usually leave from Abu Tig Marina and spend a little longer at sea, as the islands are further away than from central Hurghada. Compare the options in our guide to Hurghada island trips – excursions pick up from El Gouna hotels.

Check what's included – national park fees, snorkel equipment, lunch and drinks – and choose smaller boats for a calmer day.

7. Snorkel and dive

El Gouna is well placed for diving in the northern Red Sea. Dive centres run trips to nearby reefs, and to the famous wrecks of Abu Nuhas in the Strait of Gubal, where several ships sank on the reef in the 19th and 20th centuries. Experienced divers can also arrange day trips or liveaboards to the SS Thistlegorm.

Beginners can take a try dive or an Open Water course in the calm, warm water. Choose a PADI or SSI centre with small groups and good recent reviews.

Drop down at Abu Nuhas and the hull of a wreck looms out of the blue, its decks covered in soft corals and glassfish swirling through the open holds – an unforgettable first wreck dive. The boat days start early and are long, with lunch on deck between dives and the dry, salty feeling of sun on your skin by the afternoon. Bring a windproof jacket for the ride back in winter.

8. Play golf or tennis

El Gouna has two golf courses designed by well-known architects, set among lagoons and desert, plus sports clubs with tennis and padel courts. Many hotels include gym access and water sports.

Running and cycling along the quiet roads and promenades is popular in the cooler morning hours, and the town hosts sporting events throughout the year.

9. Go on a desert safari

Afternoon desert trips from El Gouna are much the same as from Hurghada: quad biking or a jeep ride into the Eastern Desert, a camel ride, a visit to a Bedouin camp, tea and fresh bread, a sunset view and dinner under the stars. Hotel pick-ups are included in most trips.

Choose an operator that provides helmets, keeps groups small and drives at a safe speed. Bring a scarf for the dust and a warm layer for winter evenings.

10. Day trip to Luxor

Luxor's temples and the Valley of the Kings are about four hours away by road. A day trip leaves very early and returns late; an overnight trip is much more relaxed and gives you time for a sunrise balloon flight. See our guide to planning a Luxor day trip.

A three-day El Gouna itinerary

Day 1 – Settle in: spend the morning on your hotel beach, have lunch in Downtown and take a lagoon boat ride in the late afternoon. Finish with dinner and a sunset walk at Abu Tig Marina.

Day 2 – On the water: take a full-day boat trip to the Giftun Islands for snorkelling and beach time, or try a kitesurfing lesson at Mangroovy Beach. In the evening, relax at a beach bar in the north of town.

Day 3 – Desert or culture: join an afternoon desert safari with a Bedouin dinner, or – with an early start – visit Luxor on a long day trip.

Eating and drinking

El Gouna has some of the best restaurants on the Red Sea coast. The marina is the place for seafood and international menus; Downtown has cheaper cafés, bakeries and Egyptian food. Try fresh fish grilled by weight, mezze and koshari. Alcohol is widely served in hotels, bars and many restaurants – El Gouna is more relaxed in this respect than many Egyptian towns – but dress modestly when away from the beach.

Events

El Gouna has a busy calendar for a small town. The El Gouna Film Festival, usually held in the autumn, attracts stars from across the Arab world, and the town hosts sports events, music nights and kitesurfing competitions. Hotels fill up during major events, so book early if your dates overlap.

When to visit

• Winter (December–February): mild and sunny, with cooler evenings. Great for sightseeing and diving; the water is around 22°C.
• Spring (March–May): warm days and good wind – one of the best times overall.
• Summer (June–September): hot, but the breeze makes it more comfortable than inland Egypt. Peak season for kitesurfing.
• Autumn (October–November): warm sea, pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds than spring.

Where to stay

El Gouna has everything from boutique hotels and design hotels to large family resorts and serviced apartments. Many hotels share facilities, so guests can often use beaches and pools at sister hotels.

El Gouna or Hurghada?

Choose El Gouna if you want a quieter, walkable, car-free base with great restaurants, lagoons and kitesurfing. Choose Hurghada if you want more choice of hotels and prices, an old town and nightlife on your doorstep. Because they're only 30 minutes apart, it's easy to visit one from the other.

Getting there and around

El Gouna is about 25 km from Hurghada International Airport – roughly 30–40 minutes by car. There is no public transport from the airport, so most visitors take a taxi or a pre-booked private transfer; a transfer is the easiest option with luggage, children or a late flight, as the driver waits in the arrivals area. See Hurghada Airport to El Gouna transfers and this overview of all transport options from the airport to El Gouna.

Inside El Gouna you don't need a car. Local shuttle buses link the main areas, tuk-tuks can be flagged down for short trips, bicycles are easy to rent and water taxis cross the lagoons. Taxis to Hurghada take about 30 minutes.

More Red Sea ideas: our Hurghada travel guide, our guide to where to stay in Hurghada and our comparison of Hurghada, Marsa Alam and Sharm el-Sheikh.