Corfu Out of Season: Why the Greek Island Is Lovely in Autumn and Winter
Mild autumn days, a Venetian old town without crowds, olive groves and coastal walks – what to expect from Corfu in November and winter, and what's open.
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Most visitors only see Corfu in summer, when the beaches are packed and the resorts are buzzing. But once the crowds leave, the greenest of the Greek islands shows another side: quiet lanes in a Venetian old town, olive groves glowing in the autumn light, coastal paths you'll have almost to yourself and tavernas full of locals rather than tourists.
Autumn days are often mild and sunny, and November can still bring temperatures close to 20°C – though it's also one of the wetter months, which is why Corfu stays so green. This guide covers what to expect out of season, the best things to do, what's open and how to get there and around.
What to expect
Corfu's climate is mild but wetter than the southern Greek islands. In October, many days are still warm enough for the beach, and the sea stays swimmable for hardy swimmers into early November. From late November to March, expect a mix of bright sunny days and heavy showers, with daytime temperatures usually in the low to mid-teens.
Corfu Town is a real city with a university and local life, so it stays open all year, with cafés, restaurants and shops. Many beach resorts, seasonal hotels and tavernas close from late October until April, and some boat services stop. Prices for accommodation are much lower than in summer, and you'll often have famous viewpoints to yourself.
| Month | Typical day | Sea | Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|---|
| October | Warm, often sunny | Swimmable | Season winding down |
| November | Mild, some rain | Cool | Quiet, local |
| December–February | Cool, showery | Cold | Very quiet; Christmas in town |
| March–April | Mild, green, flowers | Cool | Easter celebrations |
Things to do
1. Explore Corfu Old Town
The UNESCO-listed old town mixes Venetian, French and British architecture, reflecting centuries of different rulers. Wander the narrow kantounia lanes between tall, pastel-coloured buildings, have coffee under the arcades of the Liston – built during French rule and modelled on the rue de Rivoli in Paris – and walk around the Spianada, one of the largest squares in Greece, where cricket is still played in summer.
Visit the Church of Agios Spyridon, dedicated to the island's patron saint, and the Museum of Asian Art in the Palace of St Michael and St George.
Venetian alleys, laundry strung between pastel buildings and the elegant arcades of the Liston, where locals sip coffee and watch cricket on the Spianada.
2. Visit the two fortresses
The Old Fortress, on a rocky promontory separated from the town by a moat, offers wonderful views over the town, the sea and the mainland mountains. Inside are a British-built church in the style of a Greek temple and the remains of Venetian defences. The New Fortress, on the other side of the old town, has more views and atmospheric tunnels.
Climb to the top of the Old Fortress for views over the town and the sea to Albania.
3. Achilleion Palace
Built in the 1890s for Empress Elisabeth of Austria ("Sisi"), who loved Corfu, the palace was later bought by Kaiser Wilhelm II. Its neoclassical rooms, statues of Achilles and terraced gardens look out over the coast south of the town. It's about 20 minutes from Corfu Town and quiet out of season.
Empress Sisi's palace, with gardens full of statues and views over the coast.
4. Paleokastritsa
On the west coast, turquoise coves, a hilltop monastery and dramatic cliffs make Paleokastritsa the island's most famous beauty spot. Visit the monastery, take a boat into the sea caves if they're running, and drive up to the village of Lakones or the ruined Byzantine castle of Angelokastro for spectacular views. It's wonderfully peaceful out of season.
Small coves of turquoise water surrounded by green cliffs, with a monastery on the hill.
5. Walk the Corfu Trail
The Corfu Trail is a long-distance path of about 220 km that crosses the island from south to north, through olive groves, hill villages, beaches and mountains. Autumn and spring are the best seasons for walking sections of it. Popular day walks include the north-east coast near Kassiopi and the climb to Mount Pantokrator, the island's highest point, with views to Albania.
Paths through olive groves, mountain villages and along the coast – quiet and green in autumn.
6. Mouse Island and Kanoni
The view of Vlacherna Monastery, on a tiny island connected by a causeway, with Pontikonisi (Mouse Island) behind it, is one of Corfu's classic sights. Watch it from the Kanoni viewpoint – and if you're lucky, see a plane landing on the runway right next to it. Boats run to Mouse Island in season.
From Kanoni, you look down on the little white monastery and Mouse Island, with planes landing just overhead.
7. Taste the island
Corfu's food reflects its Venetian past. Try sofrito (veal in a garlic and white wine sauce), pastitsada (spiced meat with pasta) and bourdeto (spicy fish stew), with local olive oil and bread. Kumquats grow on the island and are made into liqueur and sweets. In autumn and winter, the olive harvest is in full swing, and some estates offer tastings.
Pastitsada, sofrito and kumquat liqueur – Corfu's food has a strong Venetian influence.
Getting there and around
Corfu Airport is very close to Corfu Town – about ten minutes by car. In winter there are far fewer direct flights, and many travellers connect through Athens. Ferries link Corfu with the Greek mainland at Igoumenitsa and with Italy.
Taxis from the airport and the port are plentiful – check the official fare or agree the price before setting off. Our guide to avoiding overpaying for taxis on holiday has more tips. In winter, local buses run less often, so a hire car is the best way to explore the island.
Frequently asked questions
What is the weather like in Corfu in November?
Usually mild, with daytime temperatures often around the high teens to around 20°C, but November is also one of the wettest months, so expect some rainy days. The sea is cool but swimmable for hardy swimmers early in the month.
Is Corfu open in winter?
Corfu Town stays lively all year, as it's a real city with a university and local life. Many beach resorts and seasonal hotels close from late October until spring.
Are there flights to Corfu in winter?
There are far fewer direct flights in winter. Many travellers connect through Athens.
Can you swim in Corfu in November?
Hardy swimmers often swim in early November, when the sea is still around 19–20°C, but it gets colder as the month goes on.
Is Corfu Town worth visiting in winter?
Yes. The old town stays lively all year, with cafés, restaurants, museums and Christmas celebrations, and it's far less crowded than in summer.
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