Izmir Travel Guide: Turkey's Aegean City, Ephesus and Beyond

Turkey's third-largest city has a very different feel from Istanbul: palm-lined promenades, sea breezes, a relaxed café culture and some of the best food on the Aegean. It's also the perfect base for the ancient wonders of Ephesus and Pergamon and the beaches of the Çeşme Peninsula.

In the city

1. Stroll the Kordon

Izmir's waterfront promenade stretches for kilometres along the bay. Join locals for a sunset walk, a bike ride or a drink at one of the seafront cafés.

2. Get lost in Kemeraltı

The historic bazaar district is a maze of lanes, old inns (hans), mosques and synagogues. Stop at the restored Kızlarağası Han for Turkish coffee.

3. See the Clock Tower in Konak Square

The ornate 1901 Clock Tower is the symbol of Izmir, standing in the city's main square beside a small, tiled mosque.

4. Ride the Asansör

This historic elevator, built in 1907, carries people up a cliff in the Karataş neighbourhood. At the top, a terrace restaurant has sweeping views over the bay.

5. Visit the Agora of Smyrna

The remains of the Roman marketplace of ancient Smyrna, with impressive arched basements, sit in the middle of the modern city.

6. Eat like a local

Try boyoz (a flaky pastry, often eaten with a boiled egg), kumru sandwiches, fresh seafood and plenty of olive-oil dishes. The Alsancak district has the best bars and restaurants.

Day trips

7. Ephesus

One of the greatest ancient cities in the Mediterranean, with the Library of Celsus, the Great Theatre and the beautifully decorated Terrace Houses. Arrive at opening time.

8. Şirince

A hillside village of old stone houses near Selçuk, known for its fruit wines and village breakfasts – a perfect stop after Ephesus.

9. The House of the Virgin Mary

On a wooded hill above Ephesus, this small chapel is believed by many to be where Mary spent her last years. It's a place of pilgrimage for Christians and Muslims.

10. Pergamon

North of Izmir, the ancient city of Pergamon has a breathtakingly steep theatre on its acropolis and the Asklepion, a famous healing centre of the ancient world.

11. Alaçatı and Çeşme

An hour west of the city, Alaçatı's stone houses, windmills and boutique hotels are hugely popular, and Çeşme has some of the best sandy beaches on the Aegean.

12. Urla wine route

The Urla Peninsula has a growing number of wineries producing wines from local grapes. Book a tasting and lunch among the vines.

Getting around

Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport has good domestic and international connections. Use the metro, İZBAN trains and the commuter ferries across the bay with a city transport card. For more of the coast, see our guide to Turkey's best beaches.