Lazy Lakeside Days: An Insider's Guide to Lake Como
An insider's guide to Lake Como: Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio, the best villas and gardens, ferries, swimming spots, hikes and where to stay.
Framed by steep mountains, dotted with grand villas and pastel villages, Lake Como in northern Italy has been a retreat for the wealthy and famous since Roman times. It's also easy to enjoy on a budget: ride the ferries, picnic on the shore and swim at a village lido. Here's an insider's guide.
The best towns
1. Bellagio
On the point where the lake's three arms meet, Bellagio is the "pearl of the lake", with stepped lanes, silk shops and the gardens of Villa Melzi. It's busy by day – stay overnight to enjoy it in the evening.
2. Varenna
A small, colourful village on the eastern shore with a lakeside promenade, the gardens of Villa Monastero and the ruined Castello di Vezio above. It has a train station, making it easy to reach from Milan.
3. Menaggio
On the western shore, Menaggio has a lively piazza, a good lido and trails into the hills – a practical, slightly cheaper base.
4. Como town
At the southern tip, Como has a fine cathedral, the funicular to Brunate for views over the lake, and fast trains to Milan.
Villas and gardens
5. Villa del Balbianello
At the tip of the Lavedo peninsula, this villa with terraced gardens has starred in films including Star Wars and Casino Royale. Reach it by boat or a walk from Lenno; check opening days.
6. Villa Carlotta
In Tremezzo, famous for its spring azaleas and rhododendrons and a museum of art and sculpture.
Things to do
7. Ferry hopping
The ferry is the best way to see the lake. A day pass for the central lake lets you hop between Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio and Tremezzo.
8. Swimming and lidos
Swim at public lidos with sunbeds, or at small pebble beaches. The water is cool but refreshing in high summer.
9. Hiking
The Greenway del Lago di Como links villages on the western shore on an easy path, and the Sentiero del Viandante runs along the eastern shore. For big views, climb Monte San Primo above Bellagio.
Practical tips
- Best time: May–June and September for warm weather and fewer crowds; July–August is busiest.
- Getting there: fly to Milan; trains run to Como and Varenna.
- Budget: stay in Menaggio or Varenna and eat at trattorias up the hill rather than on the waterfront.
- More lakes: see our pick of Europe's best lakes.
Frequently asked questions
Which town is best to stay in on Lake Como?
Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio – the 'central lake' towns – are best for first-timers, as ferries link them in minutes. Como town is convenient for trains to Milan.
How do you get around Lake Como?
By ferry. Regular boats and car ferries connect the main towns, and fast hydrofoils run the length of the lake. Driving the narrow lakeside roads in summer can be slow.
Can you swim in Lake Como?
Yes, at public lidos and beaches such as Lido di Bellagio, Lido di Varenna and Lido di Menaggio. The water is cool, warmest in July and August.
How far is Lake Como from Milan?
About an hour by train from Milan to Como or Varenna.
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