Lazy Lakeside Days: An Insider's Guide to Lake Como

Framed by steep mountains, dotted with grand villas and pastel villages, Lake Como in northern Italy has been a retreat for the wealthy and famous since Roman times. It's also easy to enjoy on a budget: ride the ferries, picnic on the shore and swim at a village lido. Here's an insider's guide.

The best towns

1. Bellagio

On the point where the lake's three arms meet, Bellagio is the "pearl of the lake", with stepped lanes, silk shops and the gardens of Villa Melzi. It's busy by day – stay overnight to enjoy it in the evening.

Steep stone staircases lined with shops lead up from the waterfront, and at the tip of the promontory, the lake opens up in three directions with mountains all around. It's busy in the day – stay for the quiet evening.

2. Varenna

A small, colourful village on the eastern shore with a lakeside promenade, the gardens of Villa Monastero and the ruined Castello di Vezio above. It has a train station, making it easy to reach from Milan.

Colourful houses rise from the water, a lakeside path winds past the boats and the castle sits above the village. Have an aperitivo at sunset on a terrace by the water.

3. Menaggio

On the western shore, Menaggio has a lively piazza, a good lido and trails into the hills – a practical, slightly cheaper base.

The lakefront promenade is perfect for a stroll, with gelato in hand and the mountains reflected in the water. It's a good base for walks and ferries.

4. Como town

At the southern tip, Como has a fine cathedral, the funicular to Brunate for views over the lake, and fast trains to Milan.

The cathedral, cobbled streets and a funicular up to Brunate for views over the lake and the Alps.

Villas and gardens

5. Villa del Balbianello

At the tip of the Lavedo peninsula, this villa with terraced gardens has starred in films including Star Wars and Casino Royale. Reach it by boat or a walk from Lenno; check opening days.

The villa sits on a wooded promontory surrounded by terraces and gardens, with the lake shimmering on three sides. Arrive by boat for the most dramatic approach.

6. Villa Carlotta

In Tremezzo, famous for its spring azaleas and rhododendrons and a museum of art and sculpture.

In spring, the gardens explode with azaleas and rhododendrons in every colour, and the villa's terraces look out over the lake.

Things to do

7. Ferry hopping

The ferry is the best way to see the lake. A day pass for the central lake lets you hop between Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio and Tremezzo.

Sitting on the deck of a ferry as it glides from village to village, with mountains reflected in the lake and the wind in your face, is one of the great pleasures of Lake Como.

8. Swimming and lidos

Swim at public lidos with sunbeds, or at small pebble beaches. The water is cool but refreshing in high summer.

The water is cool and clear, and lidos with sunbeds and bars make it easy to spend an afternoon swimming and relaxing.

9. Hiking

The Greenway del Lago di Como links villages on the western shore on an easy path, and the Sentiero del Viandante runs along the eastern shore. For big views, climb Monte San Primo above Bellagio.

Paths climb through chestnut woods to villages and viewpoints high above the lake, where the views stretch for miles.

Practical tips

• Best time: May–June and September for warm weather and fewer crowds; July–August is busiest.
• Getting there: fly to Milan; trains run to Como and Varenna.
• Budget: stay in Menaggio or Varenna and eat at trattorias up the hill rather than on the waterfront.
• More lakes: see our pick of Europe's best lakes.