How to Take the Ultimate Whirlwind Trip to Jordan

Jordan is small enough to drive from top to bottom in a day, yet it holds some of the most extraordinary sights in the Middle East: a rose-red city carved into rock, a desert of red sand and towering cliffs, Roman ruins and a sea so salty you float. Here's how to see the highlights in a week.

Before you go: the Jordan Pass

Buy the Jordan Pass online before you travel. It includes entry to Petra, Wadi Rum, Jerash and dozens of other sites, and for many nationalities it also covers the tourist visa fee if you stay a minimum number of nights. It usually saves a lot of money.

Day 1: Amman

Start in the capital. Climb to the Citadel for views across the city and the ruins of the Temple of Hercules, then walk down to the Roman Theatre. In the evening, eat falafel and hummus at a busy downtown restaurant and try knafeh, a warm cheese pastry soaked in syrup.

From the Citadel, the white city spreads over the hills, the call to prayer echoes between them and the Roman theatre lies below. In the evening, eat falafel and hummus in a busy downtown restaurant.

Day 2: Jerash and the drive south

Jerash, less than an hour north of Amman, is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world, with colonnaded streets, theatres and a huge oval plaza. In the afternoon, head south along the King's Highway via Mount Nebo and the mosaic town of Madaba, or take the faster Desert Highway to Petra.

You walk along a Roman street lined with columns, and in the Oval Plaza, a bagpiper plays in the ruins – one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world.

Days 3–4: Petra

Walk through the Siq, a narrow canyon over a kilometre long, until the Treasury suddenly appears. Continue past the Street of Facades and the Royal Tombs, and on your second day climb the 800-odd steps to the Monastery, Petra's largest monument. If it's running during your visit, Petra by Night – the Siq and Treasury lit by candles – is magical.

Tip: Start at opening time, wear sturdy shoes and carry plenty of water.

You walk through the Siq, a narrow, winding gorge with walls of pink rock rising high above, and suddenly, through a gap, the Treasury appears, glowing in the sun. The climb to the Monastery is long and hot – start early, with plenty of water.

Day 5: Wadi Rum

Spend a night in the desert of Wadi Rum, the landscape of red dunes and sandstone mountains seen in many films set on other planets. Take a jeep tour with a local Bedouin guide, watch the sunset from a rock arch and sleep in a desert camp.

Red sand, towering rock mountains and complete silence – in the evening, you sit by a Bedouin campfire and the stars are unbelievable.

Day 6: Aqaba

Jordan's only coastal city sits on the Red Sea. Spend a lazy day snorkelling or diving among coral reefs, or simply relax by the beach.

Snorkelling among the corals of the Red Sea after days in the desert is pure bliss.

Day 7: The Dead Sea

Drive north to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on land on Earth. Float in the extremely salty water (don't shave beforehand and keep it out of your eyes), cover yourself in mineral-rich mud and watch the sun set over the hills on the far shore.

You lie back and float effortlessly, unable to sink, then cover yourself in black mud – a strange and fun experience. Don't get the water in your eyes, and don't shave beforehand.

Getting around

Hiring a car gives you the most freedom; roads are generally good and well signposted. Alternatively, book a driver or join a small-group tour. The JETT bus connects Amman with Petra and Aqaba.

What to wear

Jordan is relatively relaxed, but modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees is appreciated, especially outside tourist areas. Swimwear is fine at resorts and beaches.

More desert adventures

Love deserts and ancient cities? Discover 10 experiences in Morocco you shouldn't miss, or combine Jordan with a few days in Dubai.