Side, Turkey: Travel Guide to the Ancient Town on the Turkish Riviera

Few beach resorts can match Side. Its old town sits on a small peninsula scattered with Roman ruins, with long sandy beaches stretching away on either side. You can swim in the morning, explore a 2,000-year-old theatre in the afternoon and watch the sunset from a temple by the sea – then have dinner in a restaurant built among ancient columns.

Side (pronounced "see-deh") was an important port in ancient times, and its name is thought to mean "pomegranate". Today it's one of Turkey's most popular family resorts, with hotels stretching for kilometres along the coast to the east and west. This guide covers the best things to do in the old town, on the beaches and on day trips, plus when to go, where to stay and how to get there.

Side at a glance

Ancient Side

1. The Temple of Apollo

The surviving columns of this Roman temple stand right at the tip of the peninsula, facing the sea. It was built in the 2nd century AD, and five columns with part of the frieze have been re-erected. Come at sunset, when the marble glows orange against the sky – it's the most famous view in Side and very popular, so arrive a little early. The temple area is free to visit.

A few white columns stand right at the water's edge, and at sunset the sky behind them turns orange and pink while the sea glows gold. Everyone gathers here with cameras – arrive early to find a spot on the rocks.

2. The ancient theatre

Side's great theatre could seat around 15,000 people and is one of the best preserved on the Turkish coast. Unlike many Roman theatres it was built on flat ground, supported by arches rather than a hillside. Climb to the top rows for views over the ruins, the old town and the sea. Visit in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat; check opening times on the official Turkish museums website.

Climb the steep stone seats to the top and you'll see the ruins of the ancient city, the modern town and the sea all at once. In the heat of the day the stone is hot – the late afternoon is cooler and more beautiful.

3. Side Museum and the colonnaded street

A small museum set in the restored Roman baths displays statues, reliefs and sarcophagi found in the ancient city. From the main city gate, walk along the colonnaded street – once lined with shops – to the agora, the Byzantine basilica and the remains of the city walls. Much of the ancient city lies just outside the modern village, and you can walk between the ruins freely.

The small museum, housed in an old Roman bath, is cool and quiet, with statues and sarcophagi in stone rooms that once held hot pools. Outside, the colonnaded street leads you through the ruins towards the old town.

4. The old town and harbour

Inside the ruins, the old village is full of restaurants, shops, cafés and bars. The streets are pedestrianised, and in the evening the harbour fills with diners eating fresh fish by the water. During the day, boat trips leave from the quay. Prices are higher in the old town than in the surrounding resorts, but the atmosphere is hard to beat.

Restaurants, jewellery shops and leather stores fill the lanes between ancient walls, and waiters invite you in at every turn. In the evening the harbour glows with lights and the smell of grilled fish – it's touristy but undeniably atmospheric.

Beaches and the sea

5. Side's beaches

The beaches on either side of the peninsula have soft sand and shallow, gently shelving water, which makes them ideal for children. The West Beach stretches for several kilometres and is lined with hotels; the East Beach is a little quieter. Further east, Kumköy, Evrenseki, Kızılot and Titreyengöl have more resort hotels with their own beaches.

Many beaches have Blue Flag status, sunbeds and water sports. Public sections are available between the hotels.

Long stretches of fine sand extend on both sides of the peninsula, with shallow water that's perfect for children. The east beach is quieter; the west beach has more cafés and water sports.

6. Boat trips along the coast

Day boats leave from Side harbour for swimming stops along the coast and trips to the Manavgat river mouth, where the river meets the sea. Some boats are relaxed, others are "pirate boats" with music and foam parties for children – choose the style that suits you. Check what's included, such as lunch and drinks.

Pirate-style boats leave the harbour with music, foam parties and swimming stops – fun for families, but noisy. Ask about the atmosphere on board before booking if you want something calmer.

Day trips

7. Manavgat waterfall and river

The wide, low Manavgat waterfall is a short drive from Side, surrounded by cafés and shady terraces – not dramatic in height, but a pleasant, cool spot. Combine it with a boat trip on the green Manavgat River, which often ends at a beach at the river mouth.

Manavgat town's large weekly market, held on Mondays, is one of the biggest in the region, with fresh produce, spices, textiles and souvenirs.

The waterfall is wide rather than tall, but the spray and the roar on a hot day are refreshing. On the river, boats glide past green banks to the market town and the sea. It gets busy with tours – go early.

8. Aspendos

The Roman theatre at Aspendos, about 40 minutes west, is the best preserved ancient theatre in the world, built in the 2nd century AD and still used for performances, including an opera and ballet festival. The nearby Roman aqueduct is also impressive. Combine it with the ruins of Perge on the way to Antalya.

The Roman theatre at Aspendos is so well preserved it feels as if the audience has only just left – stand on the stage, whisper, and someone in the top row will hear you.

9. Köprülü Canyon

About an hour inland, Köprülü Canyon National Park is the region's best-known adventure spot. White-water rafting trips down the river are suitable for beginners and families with older children. The park also has a Roman bridge, cedar forests and the mountain ruins of Selge.

Ice-cold water, laughter and spray in the rapids, then quiet stretches of clear green river under pine-clad cliffs – rafting here is a great day out for families. Bring a change of clothes.

10. Antalya and Alanya

Antalya's old town, Kaleiçi, with Hadrian's Gate and the old harbour, is about an hour west. Alanya's castle and Cleopatra Beach are about an hour east. Both make easy day trips by tour, bus or car. See our Antalya travel guide.

Antalya's old town is all lanes and Ottoman houses; Alanya's castle sits high on a rocky headland above two bays – both easy day trips from Side.

When to visit

• April and May: warm and green – ideal for the ruins and walking; the sea is still cool.
• June: warm sea and long days before the peak season.
• July and August: very hot, often above 35°C, and busy with families.
• September and October: warm sea, comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds – the best time for many.
• November to March: mild and quiet; many resort hotels close, but the ruins are pleasant to explore.

Where to stay

A family-friendly week

Spend most days on the beach, with a boat trip one day, Manavgat waterfall and the river cruise on another, a visit to the old town and the Temple of Apollo at sunset, and – for older children – a rafting day in Köprülü Canyon.

Getting there

Side is served by Antalya Airport, about 65–75 km away. The transfer takes roughly an hour, depending on traffic and where your hotel is – many hotels are spread along the coast to the east, so check your hotel's exact location when booking. A pre-booked private transfer from Antalya Airport to Side is the easiest way to arrive, especially with children and luggage: the price is fixed per vehicle and the driver takes you straight to your hotel, while shared shuttles stop at many hotels on the way.

Locally, dolmuş minibuses link Side with Manavgat and the surrounding resorts, and the old town is easy to explore on foot – cars are not allowed into the centre, and a small tourist train runs from the car park to the old town.

Entry rules: citizens of many countries, including most EU countries and the UK, can visit Turkey visa-free for short stays; others need an e-visa. Check the rules for your passport and use only the official e-visa website.