Berat, Albania: A Guide to the Town of a Thousand Windows

While many of Europe's most famous cities struggle with crowds, Albania still feels like a discovery. Berat, in the centre of the country, is one of its most beautiful towns: white Ottoman houses climb the hillside above the Osum River, their rows of windows giving Berat its nickname, the "Town of a Thousand Windows". Together with Gjirokastër it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Things to do

1. Walk up to the castle

Berat's hilltop citadel is not a ruin but a living neighbourhood, with people still living inside its walls. Wander its lanes, churches and viewpoints – the views over the town and the mountains are superb.

2. Visit the Onufri Museum

Inside the Cathedral of the Dormition of St Mary in the castle, this museum displays icons by Onufri, Albania's most celebrated 16th-century painter, famous for his distinctive red.

3. Explore Mangalem and Gorica

The two old quarters face each other across the river. Mangalem's houses stack up the hillside on one bank; cross the old Gorica bridge to see them from the other side, especially at sunset.

4. See the mosques and the Ethnographic Museum

The Lead Mosque, the King Mosque and the Bachelors' Mosque show Berat's Ottoman heritage, and the Ethnographic Museum, in a traditional house, shows how families lived here.

5. Day trip to the Osum Canyon

South-east of Berat, the river has cut a dramatic canyon, explored on foot from viewpoints or by rafting in spring when the water is high.

6. Taste local wine

The Berat region has a long winemaking tradition. Several family wineries near the town offer tastings of local grapes.

Where to stay

Stay in a guesthouse in one of the restored traditional houses in Mangalem or Gorica – many have terraces with views across the river.

Getting there

Tirana's international airport is about two hours away by road. Buses connect Berat with Tirana and other towns, but a car gives you the freedom to combine Berat with Gjirokastër and the coast.