Berat, Albania: A Guide to the Town of a Thousand Windows

While many of Europe's most famous cities struggle with crowds, Albania still feels like a discovery. Berat, in the centre of the country, is one of its most beautiful towns: white Ottoman houses climb the hillside above the Osum River, their rows of large windows giving Berat its nickname, the "Town of a Thousand Windows". Together with Gjirokastër in the south, its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised as a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman-era town where Christian and Muslim communities lived side by side.

Berat is compact, affordable and easy to explore in a day or two, with a lived-in castle, Byzantine churches, mosques, a canyon and family wineries nearby. This guide covers the best things to do, where to stay, when to go and how to fit Berat into a trip around Albania.

Berat at a glance

Things to do

1. Walk up to the castle

Berat's hilltop citadel, the Kala, is not a ruin but a living neighbourhood: people still live in the stone houses inside its walls, and you'll find guesthouses, cafés and small shops among the lanes. The walls date back to the 13th century, built on much older foundations.

Wander its cobbled streets, find the small Byzantine churches hidden among the houses, and walk to the viewpoints on the edge of the walls for sweeping views over the town, the river and Mount Tomorr. The climb from the town is steep – go early in the morning or in the late afternoon, and wear good shoes for the slippery cobbles.

The steep cobbled path climbs to the castle, where people still live among the old churches, and the view over the town and river is wonderful.

2. Visit the Onufri Museum

Inside the Cathedral of the Dormition of St Mary in the castle, the Onufri Museum displays icons by Onufri, Albania's most celebrated 16th-century icon painter, and his followers. He is famous for a distinctive red, sometimes called "Onufri red", that has never been exactly reproduced. The carved wooden iconostasis in the cathedral is also remarkable.

In an old church, golden icons by the painter Onufri glow with his famous red colour.

3. Explore Mangalem and Gorica

Berat's two old quarters face each other across the Osum River. Mangalem, the historically Muslim quarter, stacks its white houses up the hillside below the castle; Gorica, the historically Christian quarter, sits on the opposite bank.

Walk across the old stone Gorica bridge to see Mangalem from the other side – it's the classic view of Berat, especially beautiful at sunset and when the windows are lit up at night. The riverside boulevard is where locals take their evening walk.

White Ottoman houses with rows of windows climb the hill – 'the city of a thousand windows' – with the river below.

4. See the mosques and the Ethnographic Museum

The Lead Mosque, the King Mosque and the Bachelors' Mosque, with its painted façade, show Berat's Ottoman heritage, and the Halveti Tekke has beautiful decorated interiors. The Ethnographic Museum, in a traditional 18th-century house, shows how families lived, cooked and worked, with costumes, tools and furniture.

Quiet mosques with painted interiors and a traditional house showing how families lived.

5. Day trip to the Osum Canyon

South-east of Berat, the Osum River has cut a dramatic canyon through the limestone, with waterfalls and caves along its walls. You can see it from viewpoints along the road or raft through it in spring, when the water is high enough. Combine it with the Bogove waterfall nearby for a full day out.

The river winds through a deep canyon with waterfalls – take a rafting trip in spring.

6. Taste local wine

The Berat region has a long winemaking tradition, and several family wineries near the town offer tastings of local grapes such as Shesh i Bardhë and Shesh i Zi, often with home-cooked food. It's a relaxed way to spend an afternoon.

Small family wineries serve their own wine with homemade cheese and bread.

Where to stay

Stay in a guesthouse in one of the restored traditional houses in Mangalem, Gorica or inside the castle – many have terraces with views across the river and serve generous home-made breakfasts. Prices are very reasonable compared with most of Europe.

When to visit

Spring and autumn are ideal, with comfortable temperatures for walking up to the castle. Summer is hot, often above 35°C, so explore early and late in the day. Winter is quiet and cool, but the town is open all year.

Food

Try tavë kosi (baked lamb with yoghurt), byrek (savoury pastry), fërgesë (peppers and cheese) and fresh fish from the river. Many restaurants in the old quarters serve traditional dishes at low prices.

Getting there

Tirana's international airport is about two hours away by road. Buses connect Berat with Tirana and other towns, but a car gives you the freedom to combine Berat with Gjirokastër, the Osum Canyon and the Albanian Riviera on a road trip. Many visitors also come from Greece via Corfu, which has ferries to the Albanian port of Sarandë – see our guide to Corfu out of season.