Herm, sweet Herm

With secluded beaches, turquoise waters and an island to yourself, this idyllic spot could be The Hamptons or a tiny Greek island.

But this beautiful retreat isn’t halfway across the world, it’s in the UK’s backyard.

Located in the Channel Islands off Guernsey, I must admit I’d never heard of Herm. So when I’m told by a regular that it’s “Britain’s best-kept secret”, I can believe it.

Picture-perfect beaches, stunning sea views, clifftop walks and even heather-dotted moors await, but first there’s the exciting adventure to reach it.

There’s a choice of ferry or flight to Guernsey and my journey was from Birmingham Airport on a propeller plane with the Channel Islands’ own Aurigny airline, but they also fly from many regional airports. Its aircraft tails are even emblazoned with a puffin – one of Herm’s regular residents.

As you’re flying within the UK, there’s no stress of passport control when you arrive or return. A short taxi ride later to Guernsey’s St Peter Port quay and then a 20-minute ferry journey lands you in secluded Herm.

It’s a stunning boat trip to where White House Hotel proudly stands.

It is reminiscent of Devon’s Burgh Island, which famously enthralled Agatha Christie.

Once the final ferry with daily tourists departs, there’s that exhilaration of having the place to yourself.

The only hotel, White House Hotel also manages 20 self-catering cottages, plus campsite pitches. It’s near the ferry stop, a well-stocked shop, lively pub and cosy inn at Fisherman’s Beach Harbour.

The guest card says “welcome to paradise” and if you get warm, sunny weather like I did, it really feels that way.

Country mansion-style lodging offers 40 comfortable large bedrooms and nearby cottages. Several luxurious lounges provide places for guests to relax if they are taking shade from the outdoor swimming pool or tennis court.

More than likely, you’ll want to be sitting out on the grassed terrace in one of its many inviting sofa suites overlooking the sea with its huge change in tides.

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During the daytime, the island opens up plenty of possibilities to explore.

Its many paths don’t allow cars or bikes, so it will mean plenty of walking. Occasionally you’ll see the hotel’s quad bike tootle past, transporting bags.

Seasons bring their own attractions. A bluebell wood is in flower from April to mid-October, while the most southerly colony of puffins in Europe nestle in Herm from April to August.

Even the cliff walks are manageable for relatively unfit beginners like me. Once used as a quarry for granite, the stone you pass was used in landmarks such as St Paul’s Cathedral and the plinths at Trafalgar Square.

You could walk around the perimeter of the whole island in two hours – and the views are worth it.

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Most people take the easy 20-minute walk to the east of the island for Shell Beach, where kayaks and paddleboards are available for hire by the hour.

There are immaculate toilets and a licensed high-end beach cafe. It serves fabulous coffee plus everything from crayfish sandwiches with chips for £11 to full lobster with chips for £30. No wonder it was named among the top 10 beach cafes in the UK.

It’s a blissful place to be – a sweeping pale sandy beach that never seems to feel busy and is long enough to be able to find your own private spot. Boats moor up in hot weather and the sea is clear, clean and tropical in colour – it’s deliciously cooling for a swim.

A less busy cove is 15 minutes on at pretty Belvoir Beach. It also has a cafe, but toilets are a six-minute walk away and you can’t rent watersport equipment there.

The north of the island is left undeveloped and you’ll often have beaches to yourself at Alderney Point and Mouisonniere.

One camper tells me she has been returning to Herm every summer for more than 20 years and that it’s her “slice of heaven”. If you get the sun, it really is glorious. In the rain, things would be more limited.

When it comes to eating out, the White House Hotel’s Conservatory Restaurant has a formal atmosphere and fine-dining nightly set menus created by the head chef, featuring scallops, steak, duck.

For more casual dining, several beach cafes are open during the day. The Ship Inn has two charming beer gardens and offers lunch and dinner with no dress code. It serves a delicious choice of seafood including chowder, oysters and creamy fish pie. The Mermaid Tavern is the liveliest spot on the island and supposedly the “busiest tavern in the Channel Islands”.

It hosts special events from an 80s rock night to a Cider and Ale Festival. In winter, the pub and the hotel open for Winter Wonderland weekends which feature festive family treasure hunts.

Yet even without the extra entertainment, a trip to this very special island feels like a blissful adventure. It may have been a secret to me before but once visited, it’s never forgotten.

There really is no place like Herm.

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