For the Best Taste of Honolulu, Drive Along the Water

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a close up of a hillside next to a body of water with Diamond Head Lighthouse in the background

Pack your bags! In honor of life’s most delicious highways, we give you Hit the Road, Snack, our travel guide of things to eat, see, and do this summer from coast to coast (and beyond!).

Unless you live on Oahu, you can’t drive to Honolulu (duh). But once you fly into the island (and grab a Spam musubi at the first convenience store you can find), you should strongly consider renting a car. While there are public buses, ride-sharing services, and taxis throughout the bustling city of Honolulu, as well as many walkable neighborhoods around the island, at 44 miles long and 30 miles wide, Oahu’s coast is ideal to explore through day-long road trips. And you’re definitely going to want to be able to pull over for a quick swim or a hot malasada.

Here’s my veritable guide for the best way to eat through Honolulu (and the surrounding coastal areas on the island of Oahu). Buckle up:


Hawaii’s capital city is packed with exciting activities, from shopping and dining to boating and lounging by the water. One of Honolulu’s most infamous neighborhoods is Waikiki, a lively area packed with shops, bars, and beaches. Waikiki is kind of like Honolulu’s Times Square or Champs Elysees—it’s not why you came to the city, but it’s certainly something to see. Pick up sunscreen and a package of salted macadamia nuts at one of the many ABC convenience stores that line Kalakaua Avenue and explore Waikiki beach.

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Stop by Banán, the all-banana soft serve truck at the Royal Hawaiian Center. Or perhaps a visit to Mai Tai Bar in the bright pink Royal Hawaiian Hotel is more your speed? Either way, pause for a dip in their pool or rent chairs to sit on the connected beach for a while. Or get off the avenue and head a few blocks inland to try the pool at the quaint Surfjack Hotel for fewer crowds. Grab a coffee and browse at the connecting boutique Olive & Oliver after your swim.

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When you’re ready to move on, head back towards Kalakaua Avenue, keeping your eyes peeled for Dole Whip—many convenience stores and tourism shops sell the whipped pineapple dessert. But If you’re in need of a real meal, there’s no better option than Marukame Udon. No line when you drive by? Pull over immediately.


Honolulu isn’t all sitting by the water and snacking—a 10-minute drive will take you to Diamond Head Crater, which features a challenging hike that’s just under a mile, but very steep.

Chinatown (& Downtown Honolulu)

A 15-minute drive from Waikiki, the Chinatown neighborhood of Honolulu is a bustling hub of boutiques: vintage clothing and antique shops, restaurants, tattoo parlors, art spaces, and traditional outdoor markets from the city’s Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Filipino, Thai, Laotian, and Korean immigrant (as well as Native Hawaiian) communities. Walking tours are offered by the Hawaii Heritage Center if you prefer a guide, but there’s plenty to explore solo by driving around the neighborhood.

There are shops galore, many of which sell pieces made by local artisans. Plant lovers shouldn’t miss Ginger13, which is just a short stretch away from the boutique Owens & Co.. Browse unique antiques, vintage goods, and tchotchkes all around the neighborhood, starting your hunt at Hound and Quail. For an extra special experience, hang out on the First Friday of the month, where there are art walks, live music, and specials at local businesses.

Need something cold after all that shopping? Wing Ice Cream has got your back, with classic and non-dairy flavor options like coconut pandan, banana and curry leaf, and “experimental mint chip” (hint: there’s cucumber and turmeric in there), as well as shave ice. When you’re ready for a glass of wine or a craft cocktail, head to Tchin Tchin!, or check out The Dragon Upstairs to sip on a gin and tonic and listen to live jazz. For meticulously crafted bespoke cocktails in a speakeasy vibe, make a reservation at Bar Leather Apron just outside Chinatown. Stop at Pig and the Lady, for creative Vietnamese food and impressive pastries, or massive bowls of ramen and pillowy bao at Lucky Belly.

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Grab an after-dinner snack (okonomiyaki! gyoza! musubi! udon!) at Shirokiya Japan Village Walk, a massive food court in the Ala Moana Mall, a 10-minute drive away.


Ambitious hikers will want to drive over to the Koko Head Crater Trail for a 2-mile hike laid out on a trail of old railway tracks that’s almost entirely uphill. Wear shoes with good traction and the panoramic view of east Honolulu at the top will be well-worth the trek.


Whether you’ve been hiking or lounging in the sun, at some point you’ll get hungry. Luckily, the Kaimuki neighborhood is less than 15 minutes from downtown Honolulu. Grab a table at brunch restaurant Koko Head Cafe for black sesame yuzu muffins, breakfast congee, and daily dumplings. For a shorter line, Kaimuki Superette is nearby—get the “Hapa Fried Rice” and a grilled-lemon lemonade, and you’ll be a happy camper. If you’re itching to get back in the car, order a macadamia pesto chicken sandwich and a few energy balls to go at Sprout Sandwich Shop. Of course, you can’t do better than a classic plate lunch in Hawaii, and for that you should head to Rainbow Drive-In, an institution for a reason. Load your plate with combinations of rice, macaroni salad, coleslaw, barbecued meats and beans, Spam, fish, and gravy.

You might not think Honolulu is the place to get great pasta, but the bucatini carbonara at Mud Hen Water will change your mind. Hop across the street to Town for an after-dinner drink and dessert.


Plan a day trip down the southeastern coast—take the scenic route along the H3 highway for 40 minutes of driving around verdant state parks and lush forest reserves. Pull over in Lanikai, a small community in the town of Kailua. Start with the Pillbox Hike, a short but steep trek with an unbeatable view at the top. Drive into town for giant pancakes and house-made kimchi at Over Easy. For a right-out-of-the-water-fresh seafood lunch or dinner, stop by Nico’s Kailua. Swing by President Obama’s favorite shave ice spot, Island Snow, which is actually more of a clothing shop (so you’ll want to eat your treat in the parking lot). A few lazy hours spent on Lanikai beach (and splashing around in the warm, shallow water) are mandatory before heading out.

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Waimanalo Drive south for 20 minutes from Lanikai and you’ll hit Waimanalo Bay Beach’s calm water (for chunkier waves—perfect for surfing—stop at the nearby Makapu’u Beach Park). If you thought ahead, these are both great spots to unpack a picnic. Climb up the 2-mile Makapu‘u Point Lighthouse Trail for another stunning view of the Windward Coast.

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Continue to head down Kalanianaʻole Highway—whether you run into traffic or not, a stop at a Leonard’s Malasada truck (one of several locations serving the warm Portuguese doughnuts around the island) is a must.

The North Shore Explore more of the Windward Coast by driving up to the North Shore. The Valley of of the Temples (20 minutes from Kailua), a memorial park that’s also home to Byodo-In Temple, a non-denominational Buddhist Temple, is open to the public. 15 minutes up the coast is Kualoa Ranch, a lush nature reserve and farm that you’ve probably already seen: it’s a popular filming site for movies and shows like Jurassic Park and Lost. Take a tour of the ranch or hop back in the car.

The surf town of Haleiwa in the North Shore is home to beachy shops and plenty of eateries. Grab a shave ice at Matsumoto Shave Ice, or check out some food trucks, like Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck for garlic shrimp and Aji Limo Truck for poke and fish tacos.

Drive over to the beach for some of the biggest waves on the Island. Lounge in the sand and swim or snorkel in calmer water at Haleiwa Aliʻi Beach Park. Or why not take a sunset stand-up paddle boarding lesson on Haleiwa river or go shark-cage diving in Haleiwa Boat Harbor? Experienced surfers will want to catch a wave at Sunset Beach or Pipeline—but everyone is welcome to watch.

Where to Stay

Honolulu and the rest of Oahu are of course home to a number of hotels and resorts. Keep in mind that you can easily drive around most of the island by day, but might want to make your home base in an area most aligned with your interests.


The Surfjack Hotel

Royal Hawaiian Hotel

Ilikai Hotel & Luxury Suites

Coconut Waikiki Hotel

Kailua & Waimanalo:

Whether you’re on a solo trip, with your family, or a big group of friends, the best way to stay near Kailua and Waimanalo is to rent an AirBnB.

North Shore:

Turtle Bay Resort

Ke Iki Beach Bungalows

Oahu’s North Shore Vacation Rentals

Tiki Moon Villas

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